MeritMade Lessons - What tools do I need to get started?

Tools are a super important part of being a Metalsmith. Without the right tools making jewelry can be exponentially more difficult, but there are so many tools out there. How do you know what are the right tools for you? Of course, much of it depends on what you are trying to do and accomplish. Below I've listed a set of tools that I think all beginners should start out with.

Getting familiar with these tools will take practice. To help, we offer workshops via our sister company, Alloy, where you will have the opportunity to create jewelry hands-on (you do not have to own tools to participate in classes).

I've broken my recommendations down into sections below so you can adjust depending on what techniques you want to focus on.

Basic Tools

• Saw Frame (4" depth)

• Saw Blades (2/0 size is a good general size, but you will want to adjust to the gauge of metal you are using)

• Cut Lube or Beeswax

• Flat Nose Pliers

• Needle Nose Pliers

• Round Nose Pliers

• Flush Cutting Snips

• Needle Files #2 (various shapes - round, triangle, flat, barrette, etc)

• Large Hand File #0 and #2 (flat and/or half-round)

• Ring Clamp

• Ring Mandrel

• Metal Shears or scissors

• Steel Block or anvil with a flat surface

• Set of small Drill Bits that are compatible with your flex shaft/dremel

• Workstation (Table, Bench, Plank of Wood… etc.)

• Bench Pin

• Steel Wool (superfine 00, 000, or 0000)

• Rawhide or Neoprene Mallet

• Dremel or Flex Shaft - I've never used a dremel, but I've heard they are usable...That said a flex shaft is a very handy precision tool to have.

• Safety Glasses

• Dust Mask

• Sandpaper (180, 220, 320, 400, 500, 600 grits)

Soldering
If you are interested in soldering/torches, follow this link to another blog post that goes more in-depth about the subject.

• Solder - hard, med, easy (sheet, wire, or chip. Any form is fine)

• Copper Tongs

• Sparex #2 or other type of pickling solution

• Small Crock Pot to heat pickling solution

• Tweezers

• Soldering Pick

• Flux - I recommend Grifflux #1 or Handy Flux

• Third Hand

• Tripod w screen (optional but super helpful)

• Charcoal Block

• Torch - I recommend the smith torch for larger applications (cuffs, large rings, etc). If you are going to stay pretty small the little torch will be all you need.)

• Gas - Depends on the torch you select, but keep in mind you will need tanks of gas (acetylene, oxygen, and or propane). If you live in the Kansas City area, I recommend Hohenschild. I've been using them forever and they are easy to work with and very helpful.

Bezel Setting

• Burnisher

• Bezel Roller

• Bezel - 28 ga Fine Silver Bezel (various heights and types)

Stamping

• Stamps - Various Designs and Shapes made from Hardened Steel

• Brass Mallet

I order a lot of my tools and supplies from Rio Grande. They have a huge selection, and everything is of good quality. Purchasing items from Amazon or Etsy is doable, but I haven't been overly impressed with the quality. Not to mention you often have to use separate sellers just to get everything you need. Otto Frei also has many good quality tools. In this other blog post, I go into more detail about my favorite vendors.

If convenience is your goal, I highly recommend our Beginners Tool Kit! We’ve sourced a majority of the above listed tools for you without a lot of unnecessary extras. If you plan to set up an at home studio, you will still need to buy a few things individually to get started (soldering set up, flex shaft, etc). Download the PDF of my recommended tools for full tool descriptions and images.

Hoped this helps get you started. Don't hesitate to comment below or email me with questions.

xo - Kelly

MeritMade Stories - The Augustus Necklace

We asked Dusty, one of our awesome clients, 5 questions. These are her answers. 

What is your MeritMade story? (What did you have made? Who was it for? Why did you get it?)
I requested a custom necklace with my son's name. I got it for myself as a token I can keep close to me, with my kids awesome name on it! **as a bonus she graciously fixed my favorite silver ring which had cracked.

Why did you choose to work with MeritMade?
I've known Kelly for a few years. Once I saw her jewelry, and how beautiful it was, I knew that I would love to have a custom piece from her.

How does working with MeritMade compare to buying jewelry in the past?
I rarely buy jewelry. If I do it's cheap stuff from big box stores as I don't enjoy shopping at a typical jeweler. Also.. It's Kelly!! She is an amazing woman with great spirit! She basically tackle hugged me when I first met her. Really.. hands down you just know you are going to get something beautifully handcrafted with love from a spectacularly talented lady. Who doesn't want that!

If you could get another piece of MeritMade jewelry for free, what would you want?
Probably another necklace. I have two now, both of which I love. Wouldn't mind adding a third piece!

What is the best movie quote ever, and what movie is it from?
Lev Andropov: This is how we fix problem in the Russian space station! [hits panel with tool] --Armageddon (1998)

Anything else you would like to add?
Truly, thank you for my amazing necklace. I love it and so does Auggie!

MeritMade Commentaries - Make a Ring Workshop

This Saturday will be our 5th Make a Ring workshop, and it feels like we are really starting to find our rhythm. It has been so much fun watching the creativity and skills of our students. Teaching was always part of the plan, but we had no idea it would we such a fulfilling experience.

stone selection

Each class begins with selecting a stone. There is a nice variety to pick from that includes jaspers, agates, turquoise and more in all different colors. The stone is a major part of the ring and this is the opportunity to really define what you want your ring to look like. Once the stones have been selected, we work with you to come up with a design that is both beautiful and functional. 

designing

The designs are then transferred to silver and the real fun starts. During the fabrication process you learn a variety of basic metalsmithing techniques: sawing, filling, forming, stamping, soldering etc. We are there every step of the way to help and guide. It may seem a bit daunting at first, but pretty quickly you realize that it is worth the effort. 

sawing demo

stamping

forming a band

Of course the best part is when it is all done and you leave with a ring YOU made that will last a life time. As if a super awesome ring wasn't enough, the icing on the cake is that you also leave with a greater understanding and appreciation for the craft of metalsmithing and creating jewelry.

soldering is fun, because you get to play with fire

We really can't get enough of these workshops. It is so fun for us to watch the rings come to life. Each ring is just as unique as the individuals that create them. We will definitely be doing more in the future. If you are interested in participating, click on over to our workshop page where you can find the most up to date information. We would love your feedback on future cities we should travel to and different skills/types of jewelry you want to learn. 

all the smiling faces

all photographs by Morgan Miller Photography